Sicily

We had an easy crossing to Sicily and arrived at our destination of Taormina in a little over four hours. As we approached we searched for Mt Etna on the horizon. At 3,357 metres, we figured it would be very hard to miss. But the sky was hazy and the giant volcano was nowhere to be seen.

This was our first Sicilian port and we were unsure what to expect. Taormina has been a well-known tourist destination for over a century and as the location for series two of The White Lotus, its popularity was on the rise. The old town sits about 250 metres above the sea and is the site for a large ancient Greek theatre that is still in use for music events. Isola Bella, a small rocky island and nature reserve, sits below and can be accessed via a path from the beach or by aerial tramway from the town.

As we approached the bay below the town, a dingy motored up to us asking if we’d like to use one of their mooring buoys near the shore. There didn’t appear to be many other suitable places to anchor and with the winds predicted to pick up that evening we liked the idea of having the boat safe and secure. ‘How much?’ we asked. ‘How long is your boat?’ they replied. After a few more questions back and forth they quoted 85 euros. This was about what we’d pay for a marina with toilets, showers and other facilities so we were a bit hesitant, but as there weren’t any real alternatives decided it was worth paying to secure the boat and relax before heading into town.

The young men who’d initially approached us helped us tie up to the mooring buoy and then a very stylish young woman named Giorgia motored over to tell us about the services of “The Yacht Hotel” which we’d apparently just checked into. She told us she was located on a nearby boat and would be our concierge throughout our stay. They would keep a watch over our boat and we could order in food, drinks, book a water and land taxi and have our rubbish collected. After checking out the price list we decided we’d organise our own food and drinks but liked the idea of using the water taxi as the dingy wharf was a long way from the boat and we’d need to take two trips with the number of people on board. 

That night we ventured up to the town. Taormina is known as the ‘pearl of the Mediterranean’ for good reason. It is stunningly beautiful. The main street is closed to vehicles, allowing pedestrians to wander in and out of the shops and other attractions and to enjoy the view down to the water from the Piazza IX Aprile. As we stepped out of the taxi we noticed that many people were in evening dress. We later discovered that this was the opening night of the Taormina International Film Festival and that Placido Domingo would be performing at the ancient Greek Theatre that night. Not only did we take in the sights of this beautiful town but also the glitz and glamour of the evening.

We all opted for a second night at The Yacht Hotel as we wanted more time to check out the Greek Theatre and Taormina. During the day we rested and read. Some took the dingy to shore to get supplies. Others went for a leisurely row in the kayak. That night didn’t have the same glamour but was just as much fun.

Early the following morning I went up on deck and saw that the haze had finally cleared. We had a clear view of Mt Etna for the first time since arriving in Sicily.

A few hours later, we checked out of The Yacht Hotel and headed south to Capo Mulini, a small bay where we could anchor and swim. That afternoon as I lay reading and dozing on deck there was an enormous bang from across the water, followed by a few more explosions. It turned out to be a trial for a series of firework displays later that night. The first was at 7pm which was barely visible in the broad daylight. There was another around 9pm and the finale at 11.45pm. We had no idea why they were on but have since been told it is festival season here in Sicily and most towns have a celebration of some kind at this time of year.

We had a very rough night on the water with the swell rocking the boat more than usual.  We were still getting used to the different conditions, noting that we’re quite exposed on the east coast of Sicily, whereas in Greece we were mostly protected.

We headed further south the next morning, bypassing Catania for Augusta, another anchorage that was ideal for swimming and where we could use the kayak and paddle board. We stopped in a bay close to a restaurant overlooking the water. We could see people eating inside and on the terrace but when a few of our party took the dingy across to see what was available, they were told that visitors were not welcome and that it was a private resort. Thankfully we had enough food on the boat to throw together a decent meal after moving our boat a bit closer to shore to avoid a repeat of the previous rough night.  

Our next stop was Catania for two nights. On the second day my daughter, son-in-law and two young grandsons were to come onboard for a few fun-filled days on the boat – one in the marina and one on anchor.  This was their first experience of sailing and they were all very excited. 

Aside from the airport, I’d not visited Catania before so had no idea what to expect. Around the port area, the streets are grungy with lots of graffiti, rundown buildings and litter. But walk for another few minutes and you’re at the Piazza del Duomo, overlooked by the Cathedral of Saint Agatha and other beautiful baroque buildings.

Located behind the Amenano Fountain at one corner of the piazza is Catania’s famous fish market, or La Pescheria. A terraced area allows you to view the action from above. Descend the lava rock stairs and you’re among the hustle and noise of the market. A sea of brightly coloured umbrellas, designed to protect the fish from the sun, are lit up at night when the market becomes a place to grab a quick meal of pizza, pasta, calzone and other local dishes. 

We’d been given a tip about a rooftop bar that would give us great views across the city, so on our first night ventured up the stairs for drinks and to enjoy looking over central Catania. While up there we noticed people walking around the dome of a nearby church and decided to do the same early the next morning.

Later that night we were woken at 12.30am by extremely loud music. The restaurant overlooking the marina had turned into an open-air dance club. The noise was clearly not going to stop anytime soon so I scrambled around my cabin looking for the ear plugs that I was given on the flight. They provided some relief but it was a very long few hours before the music eventually stopped at around 2.30am.

We were eager to see and learn about Mt Etna so booked a small group tour for the next day. Our guide picked us up near the marina late in the afternoon and we set off through the city and up the mountain. We had a short stopover at one of the towns perched part way up, to sample and purchase local produce such as honey, olives and wine. Our guide was amazing and very knowledgeable. We were all blown away (no pun intended) by how green and fertile the lower sections of the mountain were and learned that it takes 70 years for vegetation to grow after an eruption. This told us that any areas that were not green were the result of a relatively recent lava flow. We were taken into a lava cave and down into a huge crater. Just below the summit is a ski lift and in winter skiers can take in the magnificent view of Catania and the sea as they descend the mountain.

Early the next morning I went for a long walk through the centre of the city as it came to life. Cleaners prepared the streets for the new day, market vendors set up stalls, retailers flung open their roller doors and prepared their shop for opening time, locals travelled to work or took their children to school. As I walked, I stumbled across small piazzas where locals would later gather to eat, drink and chat. It was a really nice way of getting a better view of regular Catania.

Later we untied the boat and motored out of the marina and headed north to Augusta. We had two very excited children (and their parents) on board and wanted to give them a taste of boat life as we know it. We had a fun filled afternoon of swimming and water activity. That night we ate dinner on the boat before being rocked to sleep by it’s gentle movements.

Our first week in Sicily delivered everything we could’ve wished for, and more. The baroque architecture is astonishingly beautiful. The landscape is diverse and interesting. The water clear, cool and inviting, and so far, jellyfish free. The Sicilian food is delicious – gelato, arancini, cannoli, pasta, seafood, granita and so much more. The people have been warm and friendly and sometimes very funny. We can’t wait to see more.