Syracuse

After an early morning swim we left our anchorage in Augusta to sail to Syracuse. I’d visited the ancient town in 2017 by train for a day visit, so knew a little about what to expect. The island of Ortigia, where the old part of town is located, was our destination. We’d booked one night in the marina with the intention of going out on anchor for the following two nights. It would give us a chance to stock up the boat with food and water and to check out where the best anchorages were located.

It was a great experience for my grandsons to sail and to see how we berth at a marina. They were excited to be back on land and exploring a new town but also a bit sad to be leaving the boat. They’d taken their roles as vice-captain and first mate very seriously. Happily, they were staying in an apartment a few hundred metres from the marina so we were able to spend lots more time together over the coming days.

The old town of Syracuse was established by the ancient Greeks around 2,700 years ago and was one of the most powerful and influential cities in the Mediterranean world. There are some structures still evident from that period including the city walls and one of the largest Greek Theatres of its time. There are also many churches from the Roman times. Part of the town sits high above the water with beautiful sunset views across the Ionian Sea.

Via Cavour is lined with restaurants and that night we wandered down there for dinner. We found a table with a beautiful old building as the backdrop. The meal was a bit average but the view was magnificent. We were so close to the building and in a narrow street so it was hard to capture our view on camera.

After dinner we strolled to the Piazza del Duomo in search of gelati. It was like walking through a living museum. When lit up at night the piazza is stunningly beautiful. The Duomo (Italian for Cathedral) was built in the 7^th century and has an amazing baroque façade. We stood there in awed silence taking it all in.

One end of the piazza was partly blocked by a temporary fence behind which the paving stones were covered in sand. We later learned that it is a film set for a remake of The Leopard, a 1963 film about aristocracy and social upheaval in 1860’s Sicily and will become a Netflix series.

Around the corner from the piazza a stage was set up and different performers were entertaining locals and tourists alike. It appeared to be some sort of talent quest. There were chairs lined up in front of the stage and many people sat on ancient stone benches that lined the side of the Duomo. Children dashed about the piazza or stood with their families eating gelati. People sat with friends or family to enjoy the show. It was a warm night and the entire setting was perfect.

We decided to stay another night in the marina so that we could easily access and enjoy the town. There were a few small beaches within walking distance of the boat if we wanted to swim, and so much more in the town to see and do.

Very early the next morning I walked to a small pebbly beach beneath the ancient city wall. I descended the metal stairs and saw that there was one other person in the water and a small Yorkshire Terrier tied to her bag on the beach. I watched her wade out of the water as I wasn’t sure of the best way to get past the large rocks near the shore. We started chatting and she told me she was from Switzerland and had moved to Syracuse many years ago as she loved it so much. As I swam I saw other locals arrive to enjoy the water and chat. Most didn’t actually swim but stood waist deep in the water and talked.

Later in the morning I met my family at the local food market. We wandered about enjoying the atmosphere while I stocked up on lots of beautiful fresh fruit and vegetables for the boat. I had fun practicing my very basic Italian with the vendors while asking for various weights and numbers of produce.

In the afternoon as I lay reading and resting below deck, a cruise ship appeared at the end of our tiny marina pier. It was massive! It gradually moved to the larger pier across from the marina, completely blocking our view of that direction. A quick Google check revealed that there would be 3,000-4,000 people on board. We hoped it wouldn’t stay too long, as the streets would be so much busier as a result. As we walked home around 11pm that night we saw it leaving.

That night I met my family and we enjoyed calamari and chips down near the waterfront before wandering back to the piazza for more gelati and watch some of the talent quest. My grandsons had a ball running about the streets and dancing to the music.

Our skipper discovered that we could berth our boat on the long public dock near the marina. The dock is mostly used by very large pleasure cruisers but has a section for smaller yachts like ours. Best of all, it was free of charge and we’d still have easy access to the town. The next morning we checked out of the marina and moved across to the public dock. It felt a bit like being back in Greece where we mostly berthed on the town quays.

We spent our last full day in Syracuse relaxing on the boat, walking around the town and preparing for our departure the following day. A few of our crew took a bus to the ancient Greek Theatre a few kilometers from the town to check out the ruins.

Our dinner that night was at a traditional Sicilian restaurant. The owner took great pleasure in telling us that his wife came from Carlton. The food was simple but delicious.

The next morning my daughter, son-in-law and grandsons came down to the public dock to wave us off.  It was sad saying goodbye. I’ve loved having them with me for part of this trip and giving them a taste of my sailing life. They’d decided to stay on for a few more days as they loved Syracuse and it was a perfect place to entertain small children.

From Syracuse we sailed back to Catania and spent a night in the marina. One of our crew was flying home and said goodbye the following morning. Two new crew jumped on board for the next stage of our Sicilian adventure. We will sail up through the Messina Strait, stopping at Taormina for a night at The Yacht Hotel, before crossing to the Aeolian Islands. Until then, arrivederci.