The Aeolian Islands … via the Messina Strait and Scilla

The Messina Strait is the narrow body of water that runs between the mainland and Sicily. The strait has strong and unique tidal currents and whirlpools caused by the different times of high and low water between the Tyrrhenian and Ionian Seas. The Tyrrhenian Sea is warmer and less salty than the Ionian, and the difference in density means that the currents also vary between the water on the surface and 30 metres below. All of this means that you need to pass through the Strait at specific times of the day when the two currents are almost level or are in sailing terms ‘slack water’. Roger, our amazing skipper, sailed us through the Strait with such ease that we wondered what all the fuss was about. It was an interesting journey watching the sea swirl around us and looking like it was very confused about which direction to take.

As we approached the north end of the Strait we saw our first swordfishing boats. They were a much larger and more professional version of those we’d seen a few weeks earlier on the east coast of Calabria and were fascinating to watch as they motored around us chasing their prey. Some of the larger boats had more than one harpooner on the long passerelle out front.

Our destination at the end of the Messina Strait was Scilla, located on the mainland and recommended by friends who’d sailed this region a few times before. We passed a beach on the south side of the town that was covered in umbrellas in front of large resorts. It wasn’t quite what we were expecting, but as we rounded the rocky point, we viewed a totally different side of the town. From the water, it looked a little run-down but also very charming. There was a large castle on a hill overlooking the sea and a church nearby that looked comparatively modern. Colourful houses covered the side of the hill down to the edge of the water. Some had a terrace that sat over the water and we soon discovered that these were restaurants that would be filled with customers later that night. It reminded me a little of a tiny, slightly grungy Venice.

We’d planned to anchor in the small harbour but the sea was rough and choppy from passing ships and ferries and it was very windy. The guys attempted to stablise the boat by throwing down another anchor at the back of the boat. At the same time a young boy came by in a dingy asking if we’d like to pay for one of their mooring buoys. We initially said no, thinking the extra anchor would do the trick but eventually decided it was worth paying the money for a bit of comfort and to properly secure the boat. I called him by telephone and in my very limited Italian tried to explain that we were the boat he’d approached earlier and that we’d changed our mind. Eventually he got the message and zoomed back to help us attach to a buoy. With his broken English he explained that there was a water shuttle service to the town and back which was included in the cost of the buoy and a very nice surprise. We all got ready to hit the town.  

Behind the shops and houses on the waterfront was quite a long narrow road with (mostly) no cars. We found a restaurant and spent the next few hours enjoying the sensational view and very nice food. Unsurprisingly the menu was mostly seafood, including quite a few swordfish dishes. I tried the swordfish involtini stuffed with prawns and spices as well as the spatula fish ravioli in a zucchini cream sauce. Both were delicious! After dinner we wandered further down the street to check out the tiny shops before heading back to the boat and bed. Every few days when we’re feeling a bit awestruck by our beautiful surroundings or experience, one of us will say “how lucky are we”. This was one of those days.

From Scilla, we sailed across the top of the Strait and back to Sicily. Milazzo, located a few hours along the north coast on a small promontory, was our next destination. We’d booked into a marina for one night to stock the boat with food and water before heading out to the Aeolian Islands. There were many ferries passing, some stopping at Milazzo. The sea was rough and the boat rocked a lot, even though we were tied securely to the marina pier. It was hot and humid so we walked to a nearby café for a cool drink, noting that they had pizzas and ice cream and would be a nice place for dinner that night.  We found a few small delicatessens nearby. The larger supermarket was a much longer walk to the centre of town and it was very hot so we were happy to find everything we needed. 

We walked back to the café for breakfast the following morning and passed a few street vendors selling fish, fruit and vegetables. The fruit and veg looked really good so we filled our bags with tomatoes, capsicum, peaches, grapes and anything else that took our fancy. The tomatoes here are red and tasty and smell so fresh and delicious, and the capsicums are so much sweeter than those at home. Similarly, the peaches and nectarines are big and sweet and smell and taste like summer – as if they’ve just been plucked from the tree.

We were happy to drop the lines from the boat and motor out of the marina later that morning. It was hot and humid and we were all in need of some cool sea air. We were also very excited to finally be sailing to the Aeolian Islands.

Our first stop was Vulcano, the most southern of the islands. It is one of two Aeolian islands with an active volcano, although it has not erupted since 1890. We anchored in a bay on the north-west side of the island away from the main port and ferry traffic. The volcano sat in clear view behind the restaurants and hotels that lined the bay. The volcanic sand on the beach was black and a stark contrast to what we’d experienced. Nonetheless, the children built sandcastles, buried their parents under wet sand and frolicked in the shallow waters, just as they would at home.

The bay was filled with yachts and small powerboats and throughout the day we saw many come and go. It reminded us a little of Lakka Bay on the Greek island of Paxos where we’d anchored many times before. We took the dingy to shore to check out the main town which was a short walk away and passed some interesting houses along the way. As we walked into town we noticed many eucalyptus trees and lush vegetables gardens. The volcanic soil was clearly very fertile. Occasionally we’d catthe strong, foul smell of sulphur from the volcano and wondered how the locals lived with it every day.

We’d read about a Sicilian barbeque restaurant on the edge of the town and wanted to book it for dinner that night. Other than prosciutto and mortadella on our salad sandwiches for lunch we’d had very little meat for many weeks and wanted to try some of the local dishes. The restaurant had a nice outdoor setting and the menu looked really good so later that night we returned for dinner. We were not disappointed – the food was delicious. The menu featured many different steaks as well as pork, veal and chicken. My dish of boned chicken stuffed with black pig’s cheek and rosemary was perfectly cooked and very tasty. Robyn ordered the veal rolls filled with tuma cheese and breadcrumbs flavoured with pistachio and grains, and it was just as nice.

We were all happy to spend another night in our idyllic bay and early the next morning three of our party decided to walk to the top of the volcano before it got too hot. Despite it being a tough walk, they were really happy to have done it and to take in the amazing views.

We spent most of the day relaxing on board watching the action around us. Two fishermen motored into the bay both days calling ‘pesce, pesce’ (fish, fish). When called over to a boat for a sale, they cleaned and gutted the fish over the side of the boat before handing them over to their customer. Seagulls squawked around them waiting to swoop on the fish entrails. Nearby, on a large motor cruiser, two young women sunbaked, chatted and took selfies before turning up the music and dancing on deck. There is never a dull moment in a bay full of boats!

We walked back to the main town later that day to check out some of the shops and find somewhere for dinner. Unfortunately the smell of sulphur was overwhelming so we quickly headed back to our bay and ate at a restaurant on the beach. We enjoyed a beautiful sunset and some very good woodfired pizzas, topped with local specialties such as pistachio, mortadella and buffalo mozzarella.

I was having a final swim before leaving the following morning when I was stung by a jellyfish. We’d all been lucky to avoid them thus far, and with the water so clear around these islands felt confident they’d be easy to spot. However, this one outsmarted us (or we’d become a little complacent) and stung me on the thumb and palm which hurt like hell for about an hour. We’d read online how to treat a jellyfish sting so once the pain had passed, I recovered quickly and now have just a small red mark as the only evidence of my ordeal.

It took us about an hour to motor to the nearby island of Lipari, which is the largest of the Aeolian Islands and has a very busy ferry terminal in the main town (also called Lipari). We wanted to be away from the rough wash from the ferries and passing ships so had booked a marina a few kilometres away knowing they had a courtesy bus into the town. That evening we wandered about the old town enjoying the cooler weather and the busy shopping centre before eating a beautiful dinner at a restaurant overlooking the water and port area. There was a stage set up in the main piazza and a band was rehearsing. We were now extra pleased to be away from the action as it was shaping up to be a very noisy night ahead. I’d visited Lipari on a day trip many years ago, but for some reason the town seemed much larger and busier this time around.

We were eager to get back on the water for some relief from the heat, so after farewelling one of our crew at the ferry terminal, we headed to a large, air-conditioned supermarket nearby to stock up on food and to get the things we struggle to find in minimarts, such as batteries and cleaning products. It was so cool I didn’t want to leave. As soon as we were back on board and had everything packed away, we dropped our lines and motored out of the marina to a bay a little further north.

We dropped anchor near the shell of an old stone factory and a quarry. Further ahead we could see a long, disused pier. A look on Google revealed that it had been a pumice stone quarry until 2007. There was much controversy at the time as it had employed many locals who did not want the quarry and factory to close. Later we motored along the shore in the dingy, checking out more factory buildings and the old wharf which would’ve been used to convey the stone onto ships.

While relaxing onboard we heard a familiar voice calling ‘pesche, pesche’. It appeared our fishermen went further abroad than Vulcano! Not long after, we heard loud, jangly music coming from another passing motorboat. They were selling ice creams! We’d seen nothing like this in the Greek islands.

I was desperate for a swim before we lifted anchor the next morning but had learned that there were jellyfish in our bay. The water was blue and crystal clear and we could see all the way to the bottom, so after one of our crew took a ride on the paddle board for a jellyfish check, I went for a cautious and grateful swim around the boat.

Our final stop in the Aeolian Islands was Filicudi, which is a three-hour motor sail from Lipari. We’d planned to tie up to a mooring buoy near the small fishing town of Pecorini. There was a small hotel and a few shops and houses but a large ship sitting in the bay made it a bit less inviting, so we anchored in a nearby bay instead. Later we took the dingy to the town to buy water and food. It was so very hot and humid that we couldn’t wait to get back to the boat for some breeze. The terrain of the island looked quite different to Vulcano and Lipari and we decided it would be a great place to explore some more next year when the weather is a little cooler.

As I write, we are sailing back to Cefalu on the north coast of Sicily. I’ve been told it’s very beautiful so look forward to telling you all about it in my next and final post for this trip.